A 1964 Chevrolet Impala can run from about $8,000 for a running driver to $90,000+ for a show-level SS or convertible, based on condition and records.
If you’re shopping a ’64 Impala, the number in the ad is only a starting point. Two cars that look close in photos can sit far apart once you check rust, paperwork, trim, and how the car drives. This guide helps you land on a fair range, then spot the deal-breakers before you buy.
Quick Price Ranges For 1964 Impalas
| What You’re Buying | What It Usually Looks Like | Common Asking Range (USD) |
|---|---|---|
| 4-door sedan, running driver | Older paint, some rust bubbles, usable interior, starts and stops | $8,000–$16,000 |
| 2-door hardtop, honest driver | Decent chrome, tidy cabin, small leaks, older refresh | $14,000–$28,000 |
| Sport coupe with clean body | Straight panels, solid floors, paint that shines up close | $22,000–$40,000 |
| SS hardtop, well-sorted street car | Correct badges, strong drivetrain, nice interior, solid receipts | $28,000–$55,000 |
| SS convertible, tidy and complete | Good top, working windows, clean trim, no crusty quarters | $40,000–$75,000 |
| Show-level restoration | Fresh paint, crisp gaps, detailed bay, clean underside | $70,000–$110,000+ |
| Project or non-runner | Missing parts, unknown motor, soft floors, needs towing | $3,000–$12,000 |
| Custom lowrider build with receipts | Hydraulics or air, paint work, interior work, documented parts list | $35,000–$120,000+ |
Why 1964 Impala Prices Swing So Wide
The ’64 sits in a sweet spot: classic lines, huge parts supply, and demand across stock restorations, mild cruisers, and lowriders. A clean, plain 4-door can stay affordable, while an SS convertible with correct bits can climb into collector money.
Bodywork and trim are big-ticket items on a full-size Chevy. A “cheap” car with hidden rust can cost more than a nicer car once it’s straight, painted, and back together.
How Much Do 64 Impalas Cost By Condition And Body Style
Most shoppers land in one of four buckets. Use these as a first pass, then adjust with the checks later in this article.
Driver-grade cars
These are the weekend cruisers. They run, steer, and stop. Paint may be older, chrome may be pitted, and the interior can show wear. Prices start in the single digits and climb into the teens for nicer 2-doors.
Clean street cars
This is where the market gets busy. A straight body, tidy cabin, and decent mechanical work push a ’64 Impala into the $20,000–$40,000 lane. A desirable body style and a stack of receipts can nudge it higher.
Restored and show-level cars
Restorations live or die on workmanship. Buyers pay for paint quality, trim fit, and a clean underside, not a long list of new parts. In this tier, SS models and convertibles lead the pack.
Projects
Projects can be smart if the body is solid and the car is complete. Projects get ugly when they’re missing rare trim, glass, or convertible parts.
Where Real Pricing Comes From
Listings show what sellers hope to get. Closed sales show what buyers paid. For a baseline, cross-check a pricing tool and a recent-sales tracker, then compare those numbers to local listings in your region.
A good starting point is the Hagerty Valuation Tools for a 1964 Impala, which breaks values by condition tiers. Pair that with a retail-style range like the J.D. Power classic pricing page to sanity-check the spread.
Then anchor your number with comps from sold listings and auction results.
The Price Levers That Matter Most
These factors move the number more than wheels, stereos, or a fresh set of whitewalls.
Body style and roofline
Two-door hardtops and convertibles usually bring more than sedans and wagons. Buyers like the proportions, and fewer were built in those shapes. Convertibles also carry extra cost in parts and labor, so sellers price that in.
SS badge and what’s behind it
“SS” can mean a factory Super Sport package, or it can mean an emblem kit. Treat SS as a claim until the VIN, trim tag, and features line up with the story. A real SS in comparable condition tends to trade higher than a base model.
Engine, transmission, and swaps
Most buyers want a V8, yet the exact code matters less than how it runs. A smooth small-block with oil pressure beats a “big block” claim with smoke and hot-start issues. Automatic cars sell, while a manual swap can add appeal and the clutch feel is right.
Swaps aren’t a deal-breaker, but wiring, cooling, and mounts need to look finished. Ask what was changed, who did the work, and what parts were used. If the seller can’t name basics like the carb, ignition, or rear gear, budget time for sorting.
Custom work and documentation
Lowrider and custom builds can bring money when the work is clean and the car is safe. Buyers pay for paint quality, straight chrome, and receipts that match what’s on the car. Sloppy hydraulics, cut springs, or hacked wiring can drag the price down fast, even if the car sits right.
Rust hot spots
Rust is the budget killer. Check floors, trunk, lower quarters, rockers, body mounts, and around the rear window. Use a magnet on lower panels, then look underneath for patchwork seams and thick undercoat.
Paint and bodywork quality
Stand back and sight down the sides for waves. Check door and trunk gaps. Look for overspray on weatherstrips and bolts. If you see sanding scratches under clear, plan on living with them or paying to redo it.
Paperwork and matching story
Receipts don’t raise value dollar-for-dollar, but they lower fear. A folder with engine work, transmission work, brake parts, and alignment notes makes a buyer trust the car. Title status matters too.
Fast Walkaround Checklist Before You Drive
This routine takes ten minutes. It keeps you from falling for glossy photos and missing the stuff that empties wallets.
- Open every door and the trunk; feel for sagging hinges and sticky latches.
- Lift floor mats; check for soft spots, pinholes, and fresh seam sealer.
- Check the trunk drop-offs and the spare tire well for damp rust.
- Check frame rails and body mounts carefully for scaling and patch plates.
- Scan wiring under the dash for splices and loose grounds.
- Confirm the VIN matches the title and the plate looks original.
What A Test Drive Can Tell You Fast
Start with cold start behavior. A car that needs constant throttle to stay alive may need carb work, ignition work, or vacuum leak hunting.
On the move, feel for brake pull, steering play, and drivetrain shudder. Watch the temperature gauge and oil pressure, then ask what’s been done to the cooling system.
Second Table: Money Traps That Change The Price
| Item To Verify | What It Does To Price | What To Check On The Car |
|---|---|---|
| Quarter panels and rockers | Rust repair can run past the car’s value | Magnet test, inner lip view, underside seams |
| Convertible top system | Top parts and labor can add five figures | Frame straightness, pump leaks, window fit |
| SS verification | A real SS can raise resale | VIN/trim tag, interior cues, drivetrain claim |
| Brake system condition | Old drums and lines add immediate spend | Line condition, pedal feel, leak check at wheels |
| Cooling system health | Overheating pushes you into rebuild costs | Radiator, fan, shroud, hose age, idle temp creep |
| Electrical cleanup | Bad wiring can mean chasing ghosts | Fuse panel, alternator output, hacked splices |
| Interior completeness | Missing trim gets pricey fast | Seat frames, door panels, dash trim, console parts |
| Suspension and steering | Loose front end kills driving feel | Ball joints, idler arm, center link play |
How To Put A Fair Offer Together
Start with a clean reference number from your comps. Then subtract for the stuff you’ll pay for in the first 90 days: tires, brake work, fuel system work, and leak fixes. Add back for a solid body and clean paperwork. Sellers respect offers today that come with a clear reason.
If the seller priced the car like a show car, ask for proof: photo logs, bodywork notes, trim receipts, and who did the paint. If answers stay vague, price it like a clean driver.
What Buyers Forget To Budget For
Plan for transport, registration, and insurance. Then plan for the first round of maintenance even if the car feels fine on day one. Old rubber parts age out quietly.
So, How Much Do 64 Impalas Cost In Real Life?
A running, decent-looking ’64 Impala that you can drive right away often lands between $15,000 and $35,000. Push toward SS trims, convertibles, crisp bodies, and neat paint, and the number climbs fast. Drop into sedans, rough bodies, and unclear titles, and the number falls fast too.
If you’re still asking how much do 64 impalas cost? after you’ve seen a few cars, that’s normal. At this age, each car has its own story. Pay for the story you can verify.
A Simple Shopping Plan That Saves Time
- Pick your must-haves: body style, transmission type, and whether SS status matters to you.
- Pull five to ten recent comps, then write down the middle sale price.
- Screen listings by body condition first; skip rusty cars unless you want a metalwork project.
- Run the walkaround checklist on every car, even the shiny ones.
- Drive it, then price repairs before you talk numbers.
- Write your offer with a short list of repair costs and your comp range.
If you want one sentence to carry into your next viewing, use this: you’re not paying for miles or claims, you’re paying for metal, workmanship, and proof.
And if you’re checking listings late at night and thinking, how much do 64 impalas cost? start with rust and paperwork. That’s where the real money hides.